In France, the main festive meal is Le Reveillon, or “the waking”, so named because it takes place on Christmas Eve in the early hours of the morning after midnight mass. No expense or effort is spared for this banquet, which starts with decadent appetisers ranging from caviar blinis to foie gras and scallops in tarragon cream sauce. Seafood is a prominent part of the Christmas meal – think oysters on ice and whole lobster – although the main course is typically turkey or capon stuffed with chestnuts.
In Provence, it’s traditional to serve 13 desserts, meant to represent Jesus and his apostles. Although precise dishes vary, popular choices include pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche spread with grape jam), walnut-stuffed figs, fresh fruit and dates. Bûche de Noël, or chocolate Yule log, is a staple everywhere and Champagne is the beverage of choice for washing it all down.